Manchester Uniting

Whether you’re in town for sports or business, you’ll fit in at Malmaison

The French and the English enjoy a healthy rivalry, but the historical and cultural squabbles disappear like so many frothy pints at the Parisian-style Malmaison Bar, Hotel, Brasserie and Spa, in Manchester, England (0161.278.1000; malmaison-manchester.com). According to lore, the 150-year-old building that houses Malmaison has been a doll hospital and a warehouse. But today, for the lads who’ve spilled their blood and broken their bones on the field, and the fans in the stands who go berserk over every Manchester United or Manchester City goal, the place is a local mecca.

Although Malmaison’s bar — known as MalBar to locals, just as the brasserie and hotel are shortened to the Mal — is a sports bar at heart, the proprietors had the good sense not to install 35 huge televisions and sling suds until the place goes amok. This isn’t English Pubs Gone Wild, not even close. In fact, there’s no TV, the mood is always civil, and the rich, red-and-black décor is comfortably enveloping. It’s an odd juxtaposition for hardscrabble Manchester, which is part of the Mal’s charm.

Bar supervisor Adrian Vipond, who hails from nearby Birmingham, is a chatty, friendly guy who doubles as a proud promoter for the Mal. “Did you know that Esquire magazine rated us the best UK Business Hotel of 2007? We have Wi-Fi everywhere, even in the bar,” he says.

You won’t find many laptops at the bar itself, but the Mal also has 19 tables, any one of which serves nicely as a makeshift office. What’s that you say? Your BlackBerry is acting up, and you have to whip out a letter or respond to an e-mail? Settle in and get the job done.

And while you’re at it — or after you’re done — enjoy the bar’s eclectic offerings. The Mal Mule is Vipond’s kicked-up version of the famous Moscow Mule. The essential ingredients — Russian vodka and ginger beer — are bolstered with fresh lime juice, apricot liqueur, crème de cassis, four fresh blackberries, a dash of rum, and vanilla syrup. The price is hefty (£8, or about $16), but if you finish one, you probably won’t need a refill.

Other mainstays at the Mal include the popular mojito (rum, freshly squeezed lime juice, brown sugar, and mint sprigs), and an homage to the late, great Jimi Hendrix, a suitably potent mix of piney Hendrick’s Gin, Jim Beam bourbon, lime juice, and sugar.

The Mal’s beer selection doesn’t disappoint. Grolsch, Guinness, and the bitter Irish ale Caffreys are available on tap, as is Budweiser. Options from the bottle include Corona from Mexico and Peroni from Italy.

The mood at the Mal is enhanced by a nice mix of soul, jazz, dance music, and chart-topping pop. “We keep it loud enough for people to hear but not loud enough so they have to shout,” explains Vipond.

The Mal’s cool, low-key feel makes it a draw for a mixed crowd (in other words, not just soccer diehards), including businesswomen who like to converse, meet, and greet without being jostled by a testosterone-fueled crowd. Besides, the appetites here run more to food than to flirting.

When your work is done and your second drink drained, fortification beckons: the massive Mal Burger, a £12 ($24) masterpiece served with fries and a salad. Says a local: “It’s a challenge to finish it.” But as with everything else here, it’s worth it.

— Chris Barnett

The Wine Shop

Italian pinot grigio varies in quality, but too many are often dilute and innocuous. This month, Continental Sommelier David Gordon, who lends his award-winning expertise to New York’s Tribeca Grill and other restaurants, recommends three alternatives.

Capella S. Andrea Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Tuscany 2007 $13.99
Light bodied and crisp, with ripe fruit and a touch of minerality, this elegant wine has far more flavor and persistence on the palate than most pinot grigios.

Edmunds St. John Pinot Gris, El Dorado County 2006 $17.99
Steve Edmunds makes a flavor-packed pinot gris that has pear and anise flavors. Medium bodied, with a touch of spice reminiscent of an Alsatian pinot gris.

Ponzi Pinot Gris, Oregon 2007 $18.99
Dick Ponzi was one of the first producers to make wine in Willamette Valley. His specialty is pinot noir, but he is also very successful with Oregon’s most popular white grape. This medium bodied, ripe pinot gris is quite refreshing, and perfect with grilled salmon. — D.G.