Here’s Johnny’s!

Local history and Italian cuisine mingle at a Cleveland institution

Meet the Santosuossos, Cleveland’s first family of cocktails and Italian cuisine. Great-grandma Louise launched the dynasty in the 1920s with a restaurant and saloon on Fulton Road that survived Prohibition as a speakeasy and is now called Johnny’s Bar. But three generations later, the family’s other Johnny’s, Johnny’s Downtown, in the Warehouse District (1406 W. 6th St., 216.623.0055; johnnyscleveland.com), is the drinking and dining power spot in this increasingly hip city on the Cuyahoga River.

Just ask John Zingales, an asset manager for Smith Barney in Cleveland, who says Johnny’s is a magical spot for him. “Had my first date here with my wife, Marla, and we started off at the bar. A prominent Cleveland attorney, Bob Rototori, who’s known as Cleveland Bob, comes in and croons weekly at the piano bar, which is action central from 6 p.m. to close. This place is historic.”

There’s no arguing that. The structure, built in 1860, was originally the Burgess Grocers Building and housed dry goods. Today, the interiors are filled with a sense of vintage elegance and sophistication. Eighteen feet above the black-and-white tile floors, the high ceilings give the room the look of a cathedral. Dark mahogany and huge floor-to-ceiling tapestries add to the old-world feel. A dozen burgundy leather bar stools, two simple but classic chandeliers over the bar, a huge spray of fresh flowers on the back bar, and a half dozen murals in the dining room complete the look.

Johnny’s Downtown operates under the watchful eye of partners Joe and Bo Santosuosso and Paul Anthony, well-seasoned hosts who make newcomers feel like regulars. “Businesswomen and vacationers can sit at our bar, have a drink, and never have to worry about unwanted suitors,” says Anthony. “All of us keep an eye on them.”

Mixologist Richard Ballard, who has worked at the bar for 23 years, is the soul of discretion. I tried to wheedle names and stories out of him and, like a pro bartender, he wouldn’t betray a trust. “Everyone comes here — Browns, Indians, some Cavaliers, lawyers, judges, CEOs, news media,” he concedes. “And I have lots of good stories, but you’ll only hear them after I am dead.”

Johnny’s is not an oasis for those who want to imbibe at yesteryear’s prices. There’s no happy hour, but the full wine list nabbed an Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator. Wine options include 10 whites, eight reds, three champagnes, and five after-dinner wines. The J. Lohr cabernet is $7.25 for a 6-ounce glass and the house chardonnay is Hess Select at $6.50 for the same pour. Still, there is diversity. You can choose from two cabs, two merlots, a pinot noir, a Chianti, several chardonnays, a fume, and a sauvignon blanc, among others.

Ballard says the martini reigns as the favorite cocktail at Johnny’s Downtown. While he mixes plenty of the classic gin version, he is getting calls for pomegranate or espresso vodka martinis using Grey Goose, Ketel One, and Absolut. Other popular potables: pricey vodka on the rocks and manhattans.

At Johnny’s Downtown, the bar can double as a dining table, and anything on the menu will be served on linen over mahogany. A local favorite is the veal chop Milanese with Savoy potatoes and a seasonal veggie, for $43. Whoa, these are New York prices. Still, as great-grandma Louise would say, “Mangia.”

This month, Continental Sommelier Martin Korson, beer and wine manager for Houston’s Central Market, recommends three light, crisp white wines, perfect for summertime drinking.

Nobilissima Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie, Italy 2006, $9.99
Light-bodied but with great flavor, this wine comes from the slopes of Friuli in northeast Italy, at 200 to 300 meters of elevation. Flavors of ripe pippin apples and key limes make this a great summer sipper with salads and grilled fish.

Dry Creek Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg 2006, $14.99
A consistent summer favorite for me. Think Meyer lemon and ripe grapefruit with a crisp, zesty finish. This is a great alternative to sauvignon blanc that will amaze your friends with its dryness. It’s been made by really nice people in Sonoma California since 1973.

Bodega Bixente E. Oreka Chacoli de Guetaria, Spain $21.99
Yes, it’s hard to say and spell, but this wine from the north coast of Spain may well become your new favorite. Ask for chacoli or txakolina — same wine, different spelling. This medium-bodied summer star has flavors of spice and limes, with a hint of floral on the dry, bright finish. — M.K.